BP or BHA? Which One is Right for You?
Synopsis 1: When deciding which over-the-counter acne treatment is right for you, let labels be your guide. Two mainstays that usually top the list are salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide. Read on to learn about how these tough acne fighters differ, and, how they will help you deal with acne!
Synopsis 2: Although both salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide are used topically to treat blemishes, and each puts up a good fight, they differ in how they work and, how they affect the skin. Learn which contender is best for you and - what to expect from these treatments.
Category: Skin Conditions
Just about everyone has had a problem with acne. Whether it's the occasional flare-up or a more serious outbreak, blemishes have a way of finding a home on every skin type - even dry! However, just because they pop out every so often doesn't mean they have to become a permanent resident - relief can be found in two similar, yet unique treatments: benzoyl peroxide (BP) and salicylic acid (BHA).
BP Power
One very effective and beneficial treatment for mild acne is BP, or benzoyl peroxide, a topical treatment which fights blemishes by introducing oxygen into the pores to kill acne-causing bacteria. When used regularly, BP may help prevent acne by keeping the P. acnes bacteria in check, which multiply quickly when sebum is trapped in hair follicles, leading to blemishes. And although it can take between two to four weeks to see results, acne responds best to consistency so stick with benzoyl peroxide for at least a month for optimal results, or before switching to a different treatment.
Benzoyl peroxide is available as a lotion, cream, gel or cleanser, and at varying percentages so experiment carefully to find the best formula for you. For best results, apply to clean skin and be alert for signs of dryness or irritation. Because benzoyl peroxide helps to reduce excess oil, it can leave the skin feeling extra dry or irritated. The best way to prevent over-drying is by starting with a product containing a low percentage of BP - 2.5% or lower - and use it only once a day until you see how your skin reacts. If you don't see results within a couple of weeks, increase to twice daily. Higher percentages are also available, but they may cause excess dryness and skin flaking, redness or irritation so don't use more than twice per day. Finally, benzoyl peroxide can have a bleaching effect on certain fabrics so be sure to wear an old t-shirt if applying to the back or chest.
Salicylic Savior
Many people who experience uncomfortable dryness with benzoyl peroxide have better luck with salicylic acid, which may even be used by those with sensitive skin. However, salicylic acid has no effect on bacteria or sebum production. Instead, salicylic acid, or beta hydroxy acid (BHA), keeps acne at bay by exfoliating away dead skin cells and opening blocked pores. Because acne prone and oily skin often have an over-abundance of sebum, dead skin cells are unable to naturally slough off and become trapped in the sebum, leading to blocked pores and ultimately, blemishes. Add bacteria (normally present on the skin anyway) into the mix, and inflamed bumps are sure to follow.
Over-the-counter treatments contain from 1-2% salicylic acid, as may also have other ingredients such as oil absorbers and alpha hydroxy acids. When first applied, salicylic acid changes the skin's pH, causing your skin to feel tight. Be sure to follow up treatment with a non-comedogenic moisturizer to keep skin balanced. Like benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid must be used continuously, or acne will return. For those with problematic and extremely acne-prone skin, try a gel formula that contains 2% salicylic acid. If you suffer from occasional breakouts and your skin tends to be on the sensitive side, look for a milder formula; a cream or lotion formula that contains .05%-1% salicylic acid, and be sure it is alcohol-free. Additionally, look for ingredients like chamomile or witch hazel to soothe the skin.
Proper Precautions
For all skin types, choosing the proper formula is crucial to achieving clear skin, whether you suffer from cystic acne or just the occasional breakout. Always read the labels before purchasing a new product, and allow a trial period of at least two weeks before expecting to see significant results. When starting a protocol with either of these ingredients (or any other acne fighter, for that matter), minimize use of other products such as cleanser or toner containing isopropyl alcohol, as this form of alcohol can enhance the drying effect of acne-fighting products. Also, use an oil-free moisturizer that contains sunscreen as both benzoyl peroxide and salicylic can make the skin photo-sensitive.
The bottom line? Once you find an ingredient that works for you, stick with it! Acne responds best to consistency and repetition: pick a routine, and follow it for at least a month to ensure lasting results.